Ilex aquifolium woodland in the Killarney Valley © Jon Fern 2011
Part
One: A Brief Geological History, Incorporating the Most Recent Period
of Glaciation, and its Impact on the Killarney Valley and Environs
The Killarney Valley is one of the Republic of Ireland's greatest natural assets. It also has a fascinating geological history. The
main contributing rock types in the geology of the Killarney Valley
are Old Red Sandstone from the Devonian Age (395-345 million years
old) in the south and west of the Park, and Carboniferous Limestone
(345-295 million years old) in the north. These two rock types meet
at an ancient geological boundary within the Park, part of which runs
beneath Lough Leane (Carruthers, 1998).
Beginning
with the Pleistocene Age, which began around 2 million years ago, and
lasting until around 16,000 years ago, the last major period of
glaciation helped to shape the bedrock of the Killarney Valley. Ice
eroded the bedrock and deposited eroded material as glacial tills,
forming moraines or mounds of mixed gravel and stones, which would
later become hills. The massive Templenoe glacier carved out many of
the mountain features we see today, including Moll’s Gap (Quirke,
2001). The Gap of Dunloe was formed when an area of ice moved across
a ridge, carving out the valley beyond (Mitchell et
al.,
2007). Mitchell et
al. (2007)
also point to the striated rocks around the Upper Lake as evidence of
the erosion from the ice.
Carruthers
(1998) identifies several cold stages affecting Kerry, interspersed
with warmer interglacial periods. During the Pleistocene Epoch,
massive ice sheets formed which caused the earth’s crust to sag;
during the interglacial periods, the resultant upwarping of the
ground sometimes left beaches higher than sea level; an example of
this is found at Ballydavid on the Dingle peninsula. These
interglacial periods deposited organic material as well as inorganic
tills; peat and semi-organic silts may be found within the low cliffs
around Spa, near Tralee bay. Pollen from these deposits included
grains from species including fir and rhododendron. Uranium-thorium
disequilibrium dating determined the age of these deposits to be
between 123 000 and 114 000 years BP (Carruthers, T., 1990).
Since
each of the glaciers that affected Killarney likely removed the
traces of those previous, the most noticeable effects of glaciation
in the area come from the most recent glaciation event (Quirke,
2001). This lasted from 115 000 years ago to 10 000 years ago.
Freeze-thaw action shattered mountain peaks almost continuously.
Mountains of Old Red Sandstone particularly were eroded by layers of
shattered rock. Snow accumulated as temperatures plummeted, and
masses of ice formed. They thickened and became glaciers.
Quirke
(2001) describes the Templenoe glacier as being instrumental to the
formation of the Killarney landscape. More so than the mountain ice
on the Macgillycuddys Reeks, the ice cap carved the Earth into
now-familiar formations: north-moving tongues of ice split from the
ice cap and met the Reeks – the ice split further, with some
deepening Ballaghbeama Pass, down the Caragh River valley, around
Caragh Lake and on towards Dingle Bay (with Cromane Point being part
of the terminal moraine from this ice flow). More ice moved east past
Mangerton. It also forced its way through what is now Moll’s Gap
and the Gap of Dunloe. These are called glacial breaches. The ice
moved through Owenreagh and Gearhameen in the lowlands, but it also
flowed over higher ground as it thickened. These effects can be seen
in the smoothness and width of the valley. Glacially scoured lakes
such as Upper Lake are evident, as are smoothed outcrops called roch
moutonnées, such as Eagle’s Nest overlooking Glaisín na Marbh.
The
ice flowed north of Torc and spread in all directions, over the area
containing Lough Leane, Killarney town and River Laune. It met here
the glacier pushing through the Gap of Dunloe. Debris carried by the
ice was deposited in moraines, the Old Red Sandstone erratic
deposited on the limestone bedrock of the Park can be used to
determine the direction the ice flowed in (Quirke, 2001). Different
types of moraine were created as the ice began to retreat. Terminal
moraines were left in corries among the Reeks as the last
re-advancing of the ice subsided. As the ice melted, precipitation
increased and the limestone dissolved forming cliffs and caves along
the Lower and Upper Lakes, and leaving limestone islands. The cracks
in the limestone pavement formed. Soil became waterlogged and peat
began to build up, and blanket bog accumulated.
Part Two: A
Biological History of the Killarney Valley, From the Last Period of
Glaciation Onwards
As
the warming trend took hold at the end of the last period of
glaciation, grasslands appeared (Larner, 1992) and those trees that
had survived the ice age began to flourish. These included birch,
willow and hazel, and they formed the first new forests (Quirke,
2001; Mitchell et
al.,
2007), following the juniper that colonised the area immediately
after the retreat of the ice (Larner, 1992). Pine spread widely
around 9 000 years ago (Mitchell
et al.,
2007), and oak grew in Killarney 8 000 years ago.
Elm
also moved in alongside oak on nutrient-rich soils, leaving the
poorer soils for the pines, until a continual cover of trees between
8 500 years ago to 7 000 years ago. Following this period, the
climate became conducive to alder colonisation, and with these wetter
conditions fen-woods appeared. At around 5 000 years ago, elms
declined, possibly due to a disease event (Larner, 1992).
The
red deer for which the Killarney National Park is notable can be
traced back to 26 000 years ago in Ireland (Ryan, 1998). The earliest
evidence for the red deer in Kerry is 4 000 years ago on Ventry
Beach. It was the only deer species that co-existed with humans in
Ireland until the Normans later introduced the fallow deer, according
to Ryan (1998). The other deer species once native (the giant Irish
deer, the European elk and the reindeer) had apparently been wiped
out before humans arrived. Roe deer were briefly introduced in the
1800s, only to be killed off a few decades later, and sika deer were
introduced to Killarney in 1865. The Great Famine served to reduce
the herd of red deer significantly (Viney, 2003).
Humans
may have been living in Killarney before the last period of
glaciation (Quirke, 2001), but it was not until 7 000 years ago that
evidence for Mesolithic people living in Ireland exists. Evidence
for human habitation in Killarney during the Bronze Age 4 000 years
ago has been found at Ross Island, where copper mining took place,
and a stone circle can be seen at Lissivigeen. The woodland within
the park were cleared several times from the Iron Age onwards, as
agriculture increased (Mitchell et
al., 2007).
After
4 000 BC, there is evidence that woodland is disturbed in the
Killarney National Park area (Quirke, 2001). It is around this time
that the Arbutus appears in the pollen data (Viney, 2003), although
this may have been from seed migration via birds. Farming increased
from 3 000 BC onwards, as shown by pollen data from this period,
displaying tree clearance increasing. Some hill bogs still show
enclosures from this period, which would have been used to protect
livestock from wolves, bears, foxes and other people. Around 2 500
BC, tribal territories were formed and there are mountain cairns in
Killarney from this era.
As
food supply became steadier, the local population increased, and
around 2 000 BC, Killarney saw the beginning of metal working
(O’Brien, 2000). This metal working continued throughout the Bronze
Age. In the Late Bronze Age, tribal conflicts became common, possibly
due to pressure on food sources, when soil fertility began to be
problematic. Many hill forts date from this period (Clinton, 2001).
Conflict
continued after the Iron Age brought new technologies related to war
(Quirke, 2001). There was a resurgence in agriculture around 500 BC,
when ploughing became popular (Mitchell et
al.,
2007). Elm and ash, previously having suffered locally, recovered
when arable land declined in the area. Around 400 BC, Roman influence
lead to widespread clearing of woodland for intensive farming,
despite the fact that the Romans themselves did not invade the
country.
According
to Mitchell et
al.
(2007), soils that would have been well-drained with woodland now
became increasingly degraded to peaty podzols, a process that had
been going on wherever trees were cleared. This now became more
widespread, particularly in the uplands. Ploughing practices acted to
leach more nutrients from the soil, as sods were continually broken
and re-broken. This may have led to the expansion of heathers.
Increases in annual rainfall at this time increased the leaching
process. Cattle, pigs and sheep were raised for meat, with cattle
grazing on grassland that had by now been developed over hundreds of
years. Soil degradation and the clearance of woodland led to a
decline in plant biodiversity which is borne out by the pollen
record. These areas of farmland were never again significantly
colonised by woodland.
The
pines disappeared around this time (Viney, 2003), and oaks became the
prevalent species. A pocket of yew exists, which probably became
established around 5 000 years ago (Mitchell, 1990), and similarly
shows signs of having been cleared and occupied. The oak woods
remained in large part untouched until the 1500s, being exploited for
firewood and construction in a more or less manageable way (Larner,
1992). However, during the Elizabethan times, much of this woodland
was destroyed to facilitate the passage of English troops through the
country. But more so than military destruction, the onslaught of
industrialisation denuded Killarney of much of the oak woodland,
mainly for timber, charcoal production for iron smelting,
barrel-making and boat-building.
The
introduction of Rhododendron
ponticum
in the late 1700s (Viney, 2003), or early 1800s depending on the
source, decimated the natural flora of Killarney. By 1969, half the
natural woodland had been colonised by the shrub, which is not eaten
by anything in the Park, and outshades and outcompetes other plants
for light and nutrients. Due to the steady rain that characterises
the local climate, most gaps in the woodland become waterlogged,
filled with tussocky grass, and cannot nurture acorns. The deer (sika
and red) graze continually on saplings, which does little for the
regeneration process.
As
a result of this denudation, Viney (2003) recognises that the
birdlife in Killarney is missing species that are present in Britain,
despite being annual passage migrants in Ireland. The loss of habitat
may account for the lack of biodiversity, such as the four tits
native to Ireland, compared to the seven of Britain, although this
could also be due to the differences in climate. For instance, the
increased rain (an effect of the retreat of the ice age), may have
reduced ground invertebrates upon which small birds such as the
chaffinch, wren and goldcrest feed. Heavy grazing by sika deer on
brambles and ivy also serves to remove part of their habitat.
However,
Killarney is notable for being home to several rare species of
butterfly, such as the purple hairstreak, as well as dragonflies,
including the downy emerald and the northern emerald. Another
invertebrate of note in Killarney is the Kerry slug (Carruthers,
1998). It is conjectured (Viney, 2003) that it was an open-country
species that became adapted to tree-cover following the postglacial
warming.
The
red squirrel thrived in postglacial Scots pine woodland. When this
declined, the squirrels adapted to stands of hazel and oak. In
medieval times, an export levy was placed on their skins, which
suggests it was in abundance (Viney, 2003). However, it was
considered extinct in Ireland by the end of the 1700s. It was
reintroduced from England in at least ten sites between 1815 and 1876
by early ecologists. However, in 1911, the grey squirrel was
introduced. Grey squirrels are better able to digest unripe acorns
than the red, which explains their ability to compete so
successfully. The red squirrels are more at home in Scots pine, and
can feed on the kernels of their cones throughout winter, so the Park
is a stronghold for them, with its stands of naturalised conifers.
In
conclusion, the trend following the end of glaciation has been
towards a warmer, wetter climate, with human pressure on the
landscape leading to deforestation and degradation of soil. The
denudation of the landscape has been at times amended, such as with
the replanting of Tomies and Derricunnihy woods in the 1800s (Quirke,
2001), but more often exacerbated, as with the introduction of R.
ponticum.
How much of the effect on the biodiversity is due to recolonisation
by plants and animals following glaciation, and how much is due to
human intervention is debatable; no doubt the special climate of
Ireland has a large effect, as does its being an island.
The
greatest threat to the biodiversity in Killarney National Park is the
spread of Rhododendron
ponticum.
It remains to be seen whether humans can undo the error they made in
encouraging its growth here; however, it looks as though reversing
the exponential spread of this shrub will take efforts beyond the
economic scope of the Park as it presently stands.
References
Bolton,
J., (2008). Antiquities
of the Ring of Kerry,
Bray, Wordwell.
Carruthers,
T., (1998). Kerry:
A Natural History,
Cork, Collins Press.
Clinton,
M., (2001). The
Souterrains of Ireland,
Wicklow, Wordwell.
Feehan,
J., O’Donovan, G., (1996). The
Bogs of Ireland,
Dublin, UCD Environmental Institute.
Larner,
J., (1992). The
Oakwoods of Killarney,
Dublin, The Stationery Office.
Larner,
J., (2004). The
Ross Island Mining Trail,
NPWS.
Mitchell,
F., (1990). The history and vegetation dynamics of a yew wood (Taxus
baccata
L.) in S.W. Ireland. New
Phytologist,
115:
573-577.
Mitchell,
F., Ryan, M., (2007). Reading
the Irish Landscape,
Dublin, TownHouse.
O’Brien,
W., (2000). Ross
Island and the Mining Heritage of Killarney,
Galway, National University of Ireland, Galway.
Ryan,
S., (1998). The
Wild Red Deer of Killarney,
Kerry, Mount Eagle Publications.
Quirke,
B., (2001). Killarney
National Park, A Place to Treasure,
Cork, Collins Press.
Viney,
M., (2003). Ireland,
Belfast, Blackstaff Press.